David & Nadia Hoë-Steen 2022
Descripción
David & Nadia Hoë-Steen es un blanco de culto que abandera la revolución del Swartland. Nacido de un viñedo viejo de 1968 sobre arcilla ferrosa, este 100% Chenin blanc conmueve por su pureza. Una joya esencial de mínima intervención que despliega una textura cerosa y envolvente, equilibrada por una excepcional frescura salina.
Ficha técnica
Cata
Viñedo y elaboración
Opinión de los críticos
Rock and clay undertones mingling with grapefruit, anise and jackfruit aromas. It’s medium- to full-bodied and full of texture with a stony minerality throughout. Firm and compact chenin. Long, saline finish. Better after 2024. (Claire Nesbitt)
The oldest single vineyard that David and Nadia work with was planted in 1968 near Darling, its soils rich in iron and clay, overlaying limestone. It's not 100% Chenin – some old vines of Palomino, Semillon and Clairette remain here, plus a few other varieties. But so few that the wine remains within its rights to be varietally labelled as Chenin Blanc. The windy, late-ripening site shows in the wine, which is rich, textural and powerful, but without any fat or sense of heaviness. It delivers hints of just-ripe citrus, green olive and a muscular, waxy palate with intriguing notes of greengage, bitter orange, aloe vera and Vaseline. There is an understated, magnetic allure to Hoë-Steen’s sculpted muscularity, which demands more attention from the drinker than the other single-vineyard wines, but ultimately rewards that effort. Hugely long, with a mouth-coating finish, it’s a profound, cerebral Chenin – layered, complex and as weighty and cool as a block of marble. (Jason Millar)
The 2022 Hoe-Steen Chenin Blanc comes from a vineyard of clay soils over limestone, with a south-facing aspect that is among the last to ripen. The nose is open-knit and expressive with layers of wet stone and spicy lemon skin. Medium-bodied, the palate is balanced with good acidity before ending with a fresh, clean finish. It's delightful, but I still prefer the 2021 vintage. (Anthony Mueller)
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