Tokaji Oremus Aszu 5 puttonyos 1999 50 cl.

The 1999 Tokaji Aszu 5-Puttonyos has moved more toward secondary aromas compared to the millennial wine, with scents of candle wax, dried mango, peach skin and a faint trace of mulled wine. The palate is actually better than the nose suggests. It is extremely well-balanced with better acidity (10.8 grams per liter). There is very good weight here, with pure notes of dried mango, peach, quince and citrus lemon. It is very harmonious and the finish has a sense of effortlessness that makes this utterly adorable. What is more, you can see it lasting another two decade with ease. Drink now-2035.

Oremus is one of the most well-known wineries in Tokaji. I visited their winery in the village of Tolcsva, where their 115-hectare vineyard is located. This includes prestigious first class parcels that belonged to the Rakoczi and Szirmay families in the 18th century. And there was a sense of opulence at Oremus that I rarely encountered elsewhere in Tokaj. It not only infused their impressive portfolio, but was translated in their splendid tasting room, furnished with plush antique furniture more suited to a Bordeaux chateau. Of course, that has no bearing on the wines themselves, which are generally top quality and some of the purest Tokaj wines that you will find in the region.