Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza 2012
Viña Cubillo procede de una finca llamada Viña Cubillas, adquirida al igual que el resto de viñedos de la casa por el bisabuelo de los López de Heredia. Esta finca entrega vinos excepcionales que se comercializan todos los años como crianzas, pero que por las excelentes condiciones de calidad de los suelos podrían ser destinados perfectamente a vinos calificados como Gran Reserva.
Los aromas de regaliz y la acidez de este rioja combinan muy bien con la salsa bechamel y el parmesano de esta lasaña boloñesa.
Viñedo y elaboración
Opinión de los críticos
Wonderful aromas of mushrooms, bark, cigar tobacco and plums with just a hint of citrus. Full-bodied with incredible softness and complexity. Subtle chocolate, fruit and walnut in the aftertaste. Goes on for minutes. Fantastic wine. Classic, textbook Rioja. A joy. Incredible value! Drink or hold.
I was quite impressed by the 2012 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza, a classical Rioja that is nicely crafted, with less aging in barrel than the rest of reds and therefore with more fruit character and less López de Heredia signature. This was born as a red for tapas, a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo with 13.5% alcohol. It matured in well-seasoned American oak barrels for three years. It has ripe fruit (black rather than red) without excess and a pinch of spices and a twist of oak. 94,500 bottles produced. There are seven lots of this. I tasted a bottled that was filled in May 2018.
The water-retaining clay soils of Viña Cubillo are a godsend in a drought vintage like 2011. Combining Tempranillo with 35% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, this is spicy and a little wild, with assertive acidity, tobacco and red berry flavours and an appealing lightness of touch embellished by savoury tannins. 2021-25
The Cubillo Crianza is aged for three years in barrel and then at least two more in bottle before release, and therefore could technically fall into the Gran Reserva rather than Crianza category. The wine has an unusually high percentage of Garnacha in the blend; a varietal which often yields a softer, fleshier more generous style. Not so with 2012, a dry year with a relatively early harvest; that's what the book says, and yet the wine is wonderfully composed, with bright natural acidity, citrus fruit and hints of orange peel evidenced, all dancing around the fruit bed of flavour, the deftly savoury backdrop holding the ensemble together effortlessly. Beautifully fine and refined tannins complete the picture; there is almost a hint of salinity on the back palate, unusual in a red wine, the request for food subtly yet duly registered.