Xavier Vignon Beaumes de Venise Rouge 2017

Vignon has been tinkering with the blend of his Beaumes de Venise over recent vintages and appears to have nailed it with the 2017 Beaumes de Venise, a cofermented assemblage of 60% Grenache, 15% each Mourvèdre and Syrah and 10% Cinsault. Tasted as a tank sample, it's full-bodied and lush, with waves of black cherries, hints of stone fruit and nuances of allspice, pepper and licorice on the long finish. Vignon says it will spend three to five years in vat, so don't expect a release anytime soon. - Joe Czerwinski.