El Hato y el Garabato Ecléctico Artesano Lías 2023

The 2023 Ecléctico Variedad Puesta en Cruz Sobre Lías was produced with the variety known as Rabigato in the Douro in Portugal (for some, the highest-potential white from the zone) from a young vineyard at 700 meters above sea level on sandy granite soils. This 2023 marks the first time they did a one-day maceration with the skins, and then it fermented with indigenous yeasts (a constant here) in stainless steel and was kept with the lees for eight months. It has a golden color, a Mediterranean nose of herbs and esparto grass and a serious palate with pungent flavors and nothing about fruit, all about soil—liquid granite. It comes in at a moderate 11.5% alcohol and with a pH of 3.16 after full malolactic. 2,300 bottles were filled in June 2024.

This shows aromas of stone fruit, dried pineapple and seashells. The wine is ample, medium- to full-bodied and textured, with distinctive yet subtle salinity. It strikes a balance between ripe fruit flavors and a persistent, super-pleasant saline finish. This is pure puesta en cruz, called rabigato in the Douro, Drink now or hold.