Terras Gauda Zwarte Etiket 2021

First made in 1993, when it was fermented in American oak, this pioneering wooded assemblage of Albariño with 23% Caíño Blanco and 7% Loureira sees a combination of French barrels and foudres these days. Complex, textured, layered and intense, it combines fennel and wild herb aromas with a palate of vanilla spice, lime, quince and pink grapefruit and a dab of cream. 2023-29.

Nervy and mineral nose with a hint of herbs to the lemon rind and green apples. Pretty substantial and tangy on the medium-bodied palate full of crushed stones. Crystalized acidity zips up the palate with a saline smack in the finish. Pure and driven. Drink now.