Contino Graciano 2020

A spicy and really refined and bright graciano with bright acidity cutting through the palate. A medium- to full-bodied red, but you barely feel the weight such is the fluidity. Stones, red cherries, graphite and spices. A big wine in essence but really linear, fresh and long. A graciano that you can drink immediately. (Zekun Shuai)

Graciano is one of the grapes of the future in Rioja, according to Jorge Navascués, as it's well suited to a warming world. This is less firm than many examples, although it's certainly well structured, with finely integrated oak, subtle reduction, violet, mint and blackberry fruit. Evidence of a shift in style at Contino. 2025-35.

I tasted two vintages of some wines, including the varietal Graciano. The 2020 Graciano was produced with grapes that were picked on September 22 with moderate ripeness, delivering a wine with 13.58% alcohol, a low pH (3.25) and notable acidity (6.8) but much lower than the 2021 that I tasted next to it. I find it to be quite different from the 2021 I tasted next to it; this feels more rustic and less perfumed, with a note of tar, licorice and ink. The palate shows some earthiness and a dry finish. It matured in French oak barrels for two years. 5,236 bottles were filled in June 2023. (Luis Gutiérrez)