M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal Blanc 2019
La variedad Marsanne en el Ródano entrega vinos concentrados y largos que en su madurez embelesan a los más entendidos por su gran complejidad y elegancia. En Ermitage, Michel Chapoutier elabora este vino parcelario con apenas 2 hectáreas de viñedo repleto de canto rodado de origen aluvial. Sorprende por su salinidad y mineralidad, con una tensión en boca remarcable.
Viñedo y elaboración
Opinión de los críticos
The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more.
The 2019 Ermitage le Méal Blanc was initially tasted and reviewed last year. While I retasted it, my impressions were essentially the same as last time (reproduced here for the sake of completeness): The 2019 Ermitage le Méal Blanc boasts remarkable complexity, ranging from hints of pencil shavings and crushed stones to a range of ripe, honeyed fruit (pear, melon, citrus) and then into slightly spicy-herbal, salty elements that bring celery seed and fennel to mind. It's medium to full-bodied, broad and mouth coating on the palate, yet retains a terrific sense of freshness that revolves around gentle citrus pith/zest and salted licorice on the lingering finish.
A rich and textural style with a gently smoky element running through it. Fresher than de l'Orée this year, but still massively rich and concentrated with a long finish. Touch of tomato leaf and tangy acidity - a lively style, like a fat man that can dance. 70% aged in demi-muid; 15% new oak, the rest is second- or third-use barrels. The remaining 30% is aged in stainless steel.
Spectacularly complex nose of dried fruit (everything from pear to pineapple) with a whiff of smoke wafting through it. Very rich, but precisely contoured with a very impressive structure, the spiciness building towards the finish. Both succulent and refined at the fabulous, creamy finale. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
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